Another early morning for Kristy and I, but we didn't mind because hippos awaited us at the end of our day's journey. We left the key to our room and started walking our way to the tro-tro station. After one half hour we were guided to sit in another jam-packed vehicle. An hour and a half of dropping off and picking up (people AND bags of supplies to send to the next town), we were in Wechau. We got off and didn't even have to ask where to go. We were white, and the hippo sanctuary office was "that way". We walked in, discussed packages for tours, housing, and transportation, and a few minutes later got into a car and were 'transported' to our destination. A small dusty spot in the middle of no where, with no cell phone reception means when tourists show up, the little village has to accommodate. There are no open or closed hours for this hippo-centered life they lead. When we arrived, Agba was just enjoying his quiet cup of tea with jam and bread. Apparently two girls from Belgium had come before us and were already on the river, and Agba had thought he was off the hook for the day. Sorry buddy, you're with us! We dropped off our stuff and began the half hour hike to the riverside. When we got there, we met Malik and his three "sisters" doing their laundry, who all shouted "Agba!!" when they saw their cool older friend (Malik and the girls are probably 12-16 years old/kids from the surrounding village). While Agba went to find us a canoe, we were entertained by the kids. They spoke barely any English, so we communicated with our goofy faces and our digital cameras (they knew what to do for those!). Twenty minutes later we hopped in a canoe with two young boys who paddled us across the Black Volta, where we switched to a lighter canoe and I TOUCHED BURKINA FASO!!! Our new "driver" was named Abu, who couldn't hear OR speak, but somehow told Agba (our guide) how his entire morning of fishing went. Cool. So, at 11am we finally set off down the river with HUGE SMILES, life jackets, and cameras at the ready. The first 20 minutes of paddling we learned all about hippos. What they weigh, what they eat, and other miscellaneous information. The only thing he said that I can CLEARLY remember was the fact that mama hippos can MATE with their BABIES!! Eww!! "National Geographic" facts ingested, we kept a 'weary eye on the horizon'. After staring at this far-off rock for a while, thinking, 'That would be a GREAT place for a hippo to come up and sun itself', Agba spoke up. "You see that thing in the water that looks like a rock?" Kristy and I in unison, "Yeah". "That's a hippo."
WHOA!!!! (snap! snap! picture! picture!)
Of course by the time we got close enough (not too close, if you get between a mama and her baby on accident, SHE'LL EAT YOU) mama hippo was fully submerged. We stayed close to the bank and parked. Now, I don't know much about bird watching, but with HIPPO watching, you just sit and wait and watch and wait...AND THEN FREAK OUT WHEN IT COMES ABOVE WATER AND WIGGLE ITS EARS AND LOOK AT YOU AND YOU SCRAMBLE TO TURN ON YOUR CAMERA AND TAKE A PICTURE BEFORE IT TAKES ONE MORE GULP OF AIR...and then it goes back under and you wait. We were out on the water for about two hours. It's basically a guessing game of where they will pop up so you just have to keep your eyes peeled for any breaks in the surface. We were lucky enough to see two sets of mama hippos with their babies! They were soooo cute! And they really do wiggle their ears! Agba laughed and Abu smiled at our silly excitement, but the only time we've seen hippos in real life is when they're in a SUPER dirty tank that smells so terrible that you can't even enjoy the experience!
Unfortunately, we were paying by the hour, so after two hours we reluctantly decided it was time to head back. Just as we were turning to come back, we were passed by the girls from Belgium. What do you call females my age? Ladies? Girls? Post-teens? Well, anyway, we all met up back on site and together enjoyed our mid-day snack. After some visiting and exploring and resting around the area, Agba prepared the rice and tomato paste we brought with us. Kristy and I decided he added some spices for us, because what we thought was going to be a bland meal turned into pretty darn good reddish rice! We must have misjudged the amount of rice to bring because there was a whole pot-full. Good thing though, because the Belgium post-teens misjudged their hunger! Their crackers and oranges weren't gonna cut it for the night and oh look! We have plenty left over! Haha, bread and fish story coming to anyone else right now? Well, there wasn't enough left to fill 12 baskets, but just the amount that the four of us ladies needed. At about 4 pm, when we were scheduled to hike to our housing for the night, we noticed some smoke in the distance. Then people were rushing back and forth to the water pump, ut oh. Brush fires are common right now, but are usually controlled. This situation didn't seem to be controlled. It's just before the dry, windy Harmattan season, so most villages set their fields on fire now. So later there is nothing to burn when the wind picks up and can carry fire for miles. We learned that this fire was started an hour earlier than planned, so the right people weren't in the right places to help to control it. Hence the rush with water and hence our wait to walk. About an hour later the manager of this hippo program (I never did catch his name) led us on another 30 minute walk toward our housing (walking right through the burning field of course-completely safe;)). I bet you're TOTALLY curious about where we decided to stay the night...
IN A RIVERSIDE HIPPO HIDE!!!!
So basically, it's a tree house right next to the river! Rock on! Isn't it every kid's dream to sleep in a tree house at least once? Well, it works for post-teens too. Our manager-friend set us up with our mattresses, mosquito net, and showed us the toilet (down the ladder/50 feet away/logs over a hole with grass around it). Then he left us to unpack and explore. We found a pathway to the river, washed off our dirty piggies, and had some nice quiet time with God's creation. Agba showed up as it was getting dark to check to make sure that we had settled in 'comfortably' for the night ahead (it's going to be cold-he warned). Then he left us.
You know how in your tree house at home, your mom and dad and favorite flavor of ice cream are just 20 yards away in the big, real house? Well folks, the nearest 'big, real house' was about 30 minutes walk, and mom, dad, and the ice cream are a little farther than that. So as it was getting dark, I'm not gonna lie, I was a little spooked. But, big girls that we are, we managed. We had a late dinner of strawberry cookies and water, made an "MTV Cribs" video of our 'pad', and listened to the sounds of nature as we drifted off to sleep.
Coming soon...Day 4